JUSTINE (killforthis) wrote in silkandwool,


Name: Justine
Occupation: Design Assistant / Recent Graduate
Place of Work/University: Local Vancouver company / Kwantlen Polytechnic for Fashion Design & Technology
Favorite Fashion Designer: Rei Kawakubo, Alexander McQueen, Gareth Pugh, Rick Owens, among others. Also really feeling Haider Ackermann right now.

Some images from my grad collection, Menagerie. The way our thesis worked was that we had to find an underserviced, niche market and design a collection based on their needs. My market were creative, mature women ages 60+ who want clothes that reflect their eclectic style, kind of like the women in Advanced Style. They are meant to be investment pieces and produced in very small runs, since some require more "artisan" handiwork such as silk dyeing and felting.

some shots from the photoshoot we did

and from the runway show

The triangle cut-outs were painstakingly hand-cut with a rotary cutter, on felted wool that I also did. The first dress was created using Julian Robert's Subtraction Cutting technique combined with some draping.

The coat was done using CAD, which was the easiest way because in total i had nearly 50 pattern pieces, and they all had varying grain lines. The fabric is actually made out of woven ribbon, which was hell to sew since I had to fuse every piece, and the seamlines are trimmed with silk charmeuse.

The pullover sweater had felted and non-felted wool jersey panels, so some parts are very thick and some quite sheer. The back is cut-out all the way around the back. The skirt is pretty much a glorified circle skirt but with 4 corners at the side seams and CF and CB, but I cut it into 3 separate panels to create waves, and trimmed with dyed silk and wool. With lining it is about 8 meters of fabric. The shell is Tencel so it drapes really nicely.

Some other things I've made kind of recently:
a dress that i wore during my grad show

tencel front with leather collar and armhole trim, plus a silk georgette back so it flows like a cape when i walk, like this:

and another subtraction cutting dress

If you visit my PORTFOLIO you can actually see some actual design development work.

Why you want to be a designer: I'm not even sure if I still want to be designer at this moment. I think after 4 years of fashion school I've just gotten a bit jaded about the process and the industry. I'm also pretty technical, and a lot of my interest lies in innovative pattermaking techniques and combining them with technology. I think somewhere down the road I will probably start my own line, but probably not until I've had substantial experience.

Comments or thoughts about fashion design: I think a lot of people go into it not expecting how much work it really is, and how incredibly unglamorous this industry is. There is a small percentage of fashion that is still regarded as art, but for the most part it's just a massive business, and at the end of the day, money still needs to be made. Also I think there's a misconception that becoming a designer is the end-all, be-all of being in fashion. But that's all I have to say on that today.

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